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Tutorials

How to create double exposure images in Photoshop

In last week’s article I promised I would post an article talking about Photoshop this week, because of that here it is, a very simple article on how to create images with double exposure in Photoshop. Who saw the previous post already know how it is possible to take h double exposure photos directly on camera, so today we will take a slightly more controlled path.

Creating double exposure in Photoshop

Actually working with Photoshop is just an option because there are a variety of apps  as good as Photoshop is out there for the double exposure matter. But because it ts the reference software in image editing, it’s very likely that we’ll hear about it for a long time yet. 

Many things in PS (Photoshop) are easy to do and need just a few clicks. Others things  need hours and more hours of work. Creating an image with double exposure is not one of those tasks that will consume you all day, it’s more like 30 minutes of your life only.

The first thing to do is to choose the photos you would like to combine in your photo with double exposure.

The best tip here is to choose the main photo first, the photo that will have the most importance in its composition. Of course it’s always good to have a good idea of the theme before you start working, so choosing images that tell the story that you want to tell better is something you should always keep in mind.

For the tutorial I will choose this photo as the main photo of my double exposure:

Girl - double exposure in Photoshop

And to compose the rest of my photo I will use this other image.

Street

Cutting in Photoshop

Cutting things out Photoshop has gotten easier every day, and today we’re going to need some of this knowledge. I love working with the selection tool and masks, almost always the work comes out easy and fast. But I always use a trick to start my selections, it helps me a lot when creating more precise image cut-outs.

The trick is pretty simple. First we go on the Channels tab and duplicate the channel with greater contrast, in this case here I will use the blue channel.

Ps Channels

Then use the Level filter to further increase the contrast of the photo, making the girl black or almost totally black and the background turns white. Shortcut to Levels is ctrl+l or command+I for mac users. If necessary you can use the brush, shortcut key b, and paint black areas that belong to the area you want to select.

PS levels

Once you have a great contrast between what you want to select and the background of the image you can use some of the selection tools such as magic wand or select by color (Color range selection). Because of the great contrast between you can select almost perfectly everything.

Now with the selection ready it’s time to create a mask on your image, and this is super easy work. To do this, simply click on the third icon from left to right of the layer tab footer. You can also create an inverted mask by holding the Alt key while clicking the new mask icon.

Don’t always forget to save your progress in case something unexpected happens, and always after finishing a masking in Photoshop it’s important to save the file.

Double exposure with layers in Photoshop

Now that you already have a layer with the mask ready we can bring the second photo to the game. Here it is very easy to just drag the second image into Photoshop that it will be imported into the file you are working on. Once your second image is already in Ps go into layer opacity and decrease to about 50%, so you can see the main image as well.

Now just position the second image where you think it will look interesting and we are ready to start creating!

Layers in Phostohop

With the second images positioned copy the masking from the first to the second image. To do this simply drag the mask from one image to another with the Alt key pressed.

Masking

Reverse the order of the layers, leaving your main object on the first layer, and select the mask for this layer by clicking on it. Now the job is easy, with the mask selected just use the brush (letter b) and start painting the regions where you want the second image to appear. 

The ideal is to use a low opacity on the brush, this can be adjusted in the top menu when you select the tool. As we are painting a mask we will use only the colors black and white, so when you are painting a mask remember the following:

  • Painting white on the mask shows what’s underneath
  • Painting black on the mask hides what’s underneath

Using a low opacity on the brush will help you create a more fluid, less abrupt fit, and the result becomes much more natural.

double exposure in Photoshop - Brush

Finishing the image

Now that you’ve finished all the adjustment in the mask you can work with other filters like ACR (Adobe Camera Raw), which is a kind of Lightroom within Photoshop, to finish your image. 

You can also slightly change the composition using the native crop tool, shortcut key c, to change the proportions of the image. As soon as you’re done just export the image from the File > Export menu. 

Ready your image is ready to conquer the interwebs. If you like this kind of content consider share this post on your social media. 

double exposure in Photoshop

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Tutorials

Double exposure photography on camera

If you think that photo manipulation appeared only when Photoshop was created you are very mistaken, double exposure on the camera is just one of the old trick that photo manipulation brought to the table long ago. And of course all this was done practically in the hand and inside the develop booth. But this is a subject for another article because today the topic is simpler. It is very easy nowadays with digital technology, we can create photos with double exposure in the camera without having to go to Photoshop or Lightroom Classic CC or any other software if you wish.

But since you can’t always jump in the water without knowing how to swim, at least  a little, we’ll rather go through some basic requirements for double exposure photography first.

What is a double exposure photograph?

Double, or multiple, exposure photograph is nothing more than combining two or more images in the same photo. Not like the composites we make in Photoshop that are also a way to put images together to create something new. Double exposure photography is something that has existed since the analogue era and with it we can get several unusual and artistic results using this feature.

Example of photo with double exposure on camera

Today we have powerful cameras capable of doing this right on camera without any problems, or we can use some software or app capable of doing this.

How to shoot double exposure images with digital cameras

It is totally possible to make double exposure photos using our digital cameras nowadays. Unfortunately not all cameras have this capability, so it’s worth seeing if your camera has this feature before continuing. Even if your camera doesn’t have such a feature don’t worry you can still use some program to do such manipulation.

If you have the feature on your camera you’re ready to go. Here are some super useful tips for double exposure photography:

  1. Think before you act. Think about what you want to reproduce with this photo. Keep in mind which is the concept of the final image.
  2. Compose carefully. If you already know what message you want to get through, it’s time to compose the photos. Don’t forget that your story will be made by two photos.
  3. Use contrast. Shoot images that have something very different between them. Use an image that is darker and then one that is much brighter.
  4. Keep trying. With double exposure photography the results can vary greatly. Experimenting is the best way to achieve better results.
  5. Learn how to handle your equipment. Being familiar with your camera is something super useful always. And knowing where the limits of your device are will help you figure out if you need a new camera or not, probably not.

For those who have Canon or Nikon cameras life is a little easier, since they are the brands that dominate the professional market both of then are stuffed with options and settings. And this is the path we gonna follow. If you have any other camera do not worry because if it has this feature will not be much different.

Making double exposure photos on Nikon cameras

In Nikon cameras there are two ways to create double exposure image. At Nikon cameras we have how to shoot each of the exposure, or shoot separate exposure and then combine them straight into the camera. I will use as a reference a Nikon D610 to show the menus where you need to enable double exposure.

Double exposure on camera - Nikon
Double exposure on camera - Nikon 2
Dual exposure menu on Nikon camera

Go to the Shooting Menu Then to the Multiple Exposures menu. In the menu you will find more than one option to work with. In the case of the Nikon D610 you can turn on or off the feature, you can choose the number of exposures, at max of 3, and set the operation will be only for a photo (single) or for a series of photos (series).

Here’s a short list of Nikon cameras that have this feature.

  • Nikon D4S 
  • Nikon D5 CF *
  • Nikon D5 XQD*
  • Nikon D500*
  • Nikon D5300
  • Nikon D5500
  • Nikon D5600
  • Nikon D610
  • Nikon D7100
  • Nikon D7200
  • Nikon D750
  • Nikon D7500
  • Nikon D810
  • Nikon D810A
  • Nikon D850*
  • Nikon Z6*
  • Nikon Z7*
  • Nikon Coolpix P900

Some of these cameras you will only find in the used market as they have been discontinued. The cameras masked with * are the latest models of the brand.

Double exposure on Nikon camera
Menun cameras Nikon
Menu multiple exposures cameras Nikon

The second way to make double exposure photos directly on Nikon cameras is just an overlay of images in the camera’s own retouching menu. First take normally the photos you would like to overshoot. Then go to the retouching menu:Then find the option to overap image. Choose the first photo you would like to use and then choose the second photo.

Underneath each photo you have a gain adjustment, adjust until you achieve the desired result in your image. In the preview thumbnail you can see how your photo will look.

Making double exposure photos on Canon cameras

To achieve dual exposure images using Canon cameras the procedures are basically the same as those for Nikon cameras. Only the locations and some menu names change.

Multiple exhibition cameras canon
Canon cameras menu
Double menu exhibition canon cameras

Press the menu button and go to the 4th Settings tab.Go to the multiple exposure options and choose enable. Go to multiple exposure control where you’ll have two options, additive and media. Use additive for exposure compensation that will be added cumulatively for each image. The average setting automatically applies negative exposure compensation to each image. Try and choose the best setting for each case. Set the number of exposures that will be made and the operation will be continuous or just for an image.

Now just shoot, you can use the liveview to see the combined exposures so far.

Some of Canon’s cameras capable of double exposure;

  • Canon EOS 1DX
  • Canon EOS 5D Mark III
  • Canon EOS 5DS
  • Canon EOS 5DS R
  • Canon EOS 6D
  • Canon EOS 70D
  • Canon EOS 7D Mark II
  • Canon EOS R

Other camera brands

As the life is not only made of Canon and Nikon cameras, there are other camera brands on the market and many of them can also do direct double exposure on the camera. If you have any of these cameras below look in your manual and see how to make images with double exposure.

  • Fujifilm GFX 50R
  • Fujifilm X-T20
  • Fujifilm GFX 50S
  • Fujifilm X-A10
  • Fujifilm X-A3
  • Fujifilm X-A5
  • Fujifilm X-E2s
  • Fujifilm X-T3
  • Fujifilm X-H1
  • Fujifilm X-Pro2
  • Fujifilm X-T100
  • Fujifilm X-T2
  • Fujifilm X100F
  • Fujifilm XF10
  • Pentax 645Z
  • Pentax K-1
  • Pentax K-1 Mark II
  • Pentax K-3 II
  • Pentax K-70
  • Pentax K-S2
  • Pentax KP
  • Pentax Ricoh GR II
  • Sony Alpha A7R III

Double exposure using Adobe Photoshop.

It is also possible to recreate the effect of double exposure using softwares, the most famous of which is of course Photoshop. The effect is very similar to the effect created on the camera, but there are those who argue that the effect created using softwares is not a double exposure itself, and to some extent I agree with this. But at the end of the day what really matters is the end result.

I’m preparing a tutorial that will show how to do double exposure using Photoshop, so hang on next week the article will be on the air and the link will be here!

Photography with double exposure: On camera vs Photoshop

If you have the desire to use double exposure in your portfolio I advise buying a camera that can deliver you this feature, it’s a great way. But keep in mind that making double exposure photos directly on the camera is something that requires trial and error until you get an acceptable result. The results will be more organic and less controlled and the artistic level will depend on your imagination and skill with the camera.

Photoshop is extremely powerful and there are several ways to get the same result. The fact that you have complete control over what you’re doing makes it a great one for situations where you don’t have much freedom in the end result.

Example of photo with double exposure in Photoshop

There are also several apps that can help you achieve just about the same result. They are by no means as capable with Ps but they can be much more fun and infinitely easier to use.  

Some examples of such applications are:

More about multi-exposure photography

In addition to using multiple combined exposures to create surreal images we can use the same technique to create more realistic images. As is the case with the HDR technique that uses multiple exposures in order to preserve all the details of the photo.

Not all cameras are able to work well in situations where we have very contrasting lighting. Soon we can use one exposure only for the light parts of the photo, another for the neutral parts and a third for the dark parts of the photo.

By mixing these 3 exposure we will have an image with high dynamic range, or HDR image. We can use both Lightroom and Photoshop to do this.  

My favorite software to work with HDR images is the Aurora 2019 from Skylum it is absolutely fantastic to do this. 

You can download the trial version of it here and if you want to buy use the RIXMASCA discount coupon and win $ 10.00 off.

Final Thoughts

Regardless of what your intention is to use double exposure or not a new technique is always useful to have on your tool belt. Using the technique directly on camera or using Photoshop is just a matter of personal preference and is always worth the effort in the end. If your idea is to have more surreal images it’s worth trying to use double exposure to achieve it.

When it comes to dynamic range using multiple exposures we don’t always have anywhere to run except HDR and for this we have great tools like Aurora 2019 nowadays.

Any comment or doubt you already know what to do right, just write down here.

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Skylum Tutorials

Luminar Intermediate level

As promised here is another video about Luminar 2018, this time a slightly more complicated photo edit on Luminar Intermediate level.

Luminar Intermediate level

Luminar 2018 is a competitor image editing software Adobe Lightroom which has many advantages over Adobe program.

Today at Luminar, yes, that good alternative for Lightroom , let’s make editing a little more complicated using more than one feature available in the program.

In addition to being able to edit images in a simple way, the program can also work with masks and layers. All of this makes this tool much more powerful and capable of doing almost all types of editing.

For those who still don’t know what Luminar is, it is a good alternative for those who don’t want to use Lightroom anymore.

The program has a super cool image editing engine and is capable of editing both jpeg and Raw images. Even if you use Lightroom it’s interesting to have Luminar in your arsenal, as it’s a great plug-in for Adobe’s image editing programs.

This video is part of a series where I’m going to talk about most of Luminar’s features. And for those who already visit the blog, you know how much I like this program.

For now it does not completely replace Lightroom in mine, but in time and you will see, it will be one of the best options to get rid of Adobe chains.To see the other videos on Luminar just click here

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Lightroom and Photoshop Tips Phone Photography Tutorials

How to use presets for Lightroom Mobile

If you have been following the blog for some time, do you know how much I am connected to Lightroom, and with Lightroom Mobile on mobile sometimes things are not so easy, here comes the question, how to use presets for Lightroom Mobile?

Lightroom mobile does not have access to presets just like the computer Lightroom Classic CC so many people are confused on how and why to use Lightroom Mobile, especially those who like to use presets.

Using presets on Lightroom Mobile

From computer to mobile – Method 1

Well the story is very simple, if you have Lightroom Classic CC on your computer, it is because you are a subscriber to Adobe’s Creative Cloud package .

presets para Lightroom Mobile

And as a subscriber you have the right to transfer your photos between different platforms, such as from your computer to your cell phone. So you just need to edit your photos on your computer and then synchronize them with your phone, so all edits made on the pc, or mac, will also be available on your mobile device.

The cool thing about this is that you can also make changes to the photo while in the Lightroom Mobile app and they will have the changes made when you return to the computer. So you can open a photo on Lightroom Mobile, which already contains the edits you would like to use, and simply copy the edits to a new photo.

That simple!

Of course, this has a cost, after all Creative Cloud is not free. And not all functionality of the Lightroom app is available when you download it for free from the Play Store.

From computer to mobile – Method 2

Another way of doing the same thing and also allowing you to use Lightroom Classic CC presets on Lightroom Mobile, involves a little more patience.

First, you need to have Lightroom Classic CC installed on your computer. Then you will make all necessary adjustments to any photo in order to create a preset.

Watch the video below on how to save your presets in Lightroom Classic CC

After you make all the edits you find necessary in your photos, and save the preset, you will have to export this photo with the edits. It is not just exporting the way we are used to, you will have to export the photo in a DNG file .

On the computer!

presets para Lightroom Mobile

DNG files are actually Raw files , only from Adobe, and when you export a photo in Lightroom Classic CC as a DNG file, the file stores all edits made to the photo.

So you can apply your favorite presets to some photos, export them in DNG files and the magic will be almost done. After that done, just import the photos in the Lightroom Mobile app on your mobile device, smartphone or tablet, and finish the process.

After the files have been exported and copied to the phone, just open the photos, in DNG, on Lightroom Mobile and copy the edits to any other photo.

On the cellphone

informacoes da fotos no aplicativo

To do this, just open the DNG photo with the edits made on Lightroom Mobile and click on the 3 dots in the right corner of the screen to open a menu.

presets para Lightroom Mobile

In this menu you can copy edits from one photo to another, just select the option copy edits. Right after that Lightroom Mobile will ask you what edits you would like to copy.

opcoes para salvamento do preset

Select all the options that are relevant to your edition and click OK, now you can transfer the edits to a new photo! Then just choose a new photo in your Lightroom Mobile photo gallery and do practically the same process, only this time by clicking paste settings.

menu de opcoes do Lightroom Mobile

As soon as you paste the settings into a new photo all the settings you have chosen to be copied will already be defined in the new photo in Lightroom Mobile.

controles do  Lightroom Mobile

And ready is the method of how to use presets for Lightroom Mobile, not hard going!

Final considerations

As in the latest versions of Lightroom Mobile you are able to save presets, just save the edits of the DNG files you imported and create a new preset in Lightroom Mobile. Using this method you don’t need to turn on the computer, edit the photos and then sync with the app.

Just take the photo, with your cell phone, open the photo that has the preset you want to use and copy the edits to the new photo alright on the smartphone. Unfortunately not all devices support DNG files, older phones, Apple or Android, will remain at hand.

But if you have a newer device for sure you will enjoy this method without the slightest problem. Presets are a great way to make editing your photos faster, and it’s always worth having some up your sleeve.If you find this process difficult and don’t want to spend on signing up for an Adobe plan, my suggestion is Snapseed . It’s totally free, you can save presets for future use, it has great tools for editing. Perhaps the most annoying thing about it is that it can be easy to get lost in the app, for those who are already used to Lightroom. There are a lot of other apps that I use to edit the photos on my phone, if you are interested just comment here that I prepare other articles within this theme!

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Photography Tips Tutorials

Natural light // Understanding the color of light

Light has different properties, this is a fact, and to further complete the subject addressed in one of the past posts, Natural Light: Quality of light, today we will talk a little about the color of natural light. So that by understanding this you will surely become a better photographer. 

Understanding the color of natural light

In this chapter we will see:

  • Explore how color can affect emotional response.
  • Understand how the color of natural light changes throughout the day.
  • Learn how to mix light colors to create depth.

Colors as visual elements building a story

What we perceive as color is nothing more than our brain’s interpretation of light reflected in some object or surface, which is transmitted to the brain by optic nerves.

Under the realm of color psychology, a number of studies have shown that colors can profoundly affect how we experience the world around us, from the taste of the food we eat, to how we respond to brand new packaging on supermarket shelves.

Colors affect how we feel, and that’s precisely why understanding is color is so important to you as a photographer.

There are many ways to control or change colors in your images, such as by editing, using filters, or adjusting the white balance.

But today’s subject is natural light, so that’s why we’re going to delve into this subject and learn how to create a more emotional response by using the right color of natural light.

natural light

As “color” is an amorphous concept in a way, after all everything we see can vary slightly in tone, there is no wood to define precisely such a hue, so we work with the concept of color temperature.

Discussing the technical definition of color temperature will be a waste of time for two reasons:

  1. You’re going to be sleepy
  2. And such a concept will not make you shoot better

The most important thing to learn here about color temperature is your measurement pattern, Kelvin degrees, and now you just find out what that “K” symbol means in the white balance adjustment on your camera.

From there we have the following:

  • Color temperature below 4000K is considered warm (colors in red and yellow)
  • Temperatures above 4000K are considered cold colors (blue)
natural light

Planning is necessary

In the previous article, Natural Light: The quality of light, you learned to forget the concept of good or bad lighting, and think in terms such as more appropriate or less adequate light.

And now of course we need to continue this whole matter, and in the same way as in the last article, here there is the most appropriate and the least appropriate. So knowing how natural light changes during the course of the day is your main planning factor.

Bluish Light (11000K)

natural light

This type of natural light can be found before sunrise and also after it sets.

It usually generates a melancholy and mysterious effect, and brings the feeling of coldness.

When you go out to photograph and are in such conditions in an urban environment, try mixing the natural light bluish, from dawn or dusk, with the artificial light, orange, of public lighting, this will create a combination of lights well banana and will bring more depth to the frame.

Caution: Due to the low light level during this time of day, pay close attention to the shutter speed to avoid blurry images.

Golden light or golden light (3500K)

This one depends a little on your geographic positioning. But usually natural light with such color can be found at sunrise and sunset.

Here the emotional effect is well known to photographers, who even nicknamed this moment Golden Hour or Magic Hour. It is very close to a pastel painting with your colors, warm shades of red and yellow.

Portraits taken during this hour seem full of magic and very welcoming.

natural light

Portraits can look very good using natural sunrise light as the only source of illumination.

Note that for magic to happen you need to be present, so if you plan to shoot during this period, plan your schedule as you will have to wake up early, very early.

Noon Light (5000 to 6500K)

This type of natural light also depends on its geographical location, in most places it is quite common about 1 hour after sunrise as well as 1 hour after it goes down.

The emotional effect is quite neutral, even though it is considered a cold color, in terms of Degrees Kelvin.

A nice thing about this type of natural light is that it will enlarge the colors of objects and bring a very nice contrast level to the photo.

natural light

Cloudy day (7000K)

Well here it’s pretty simple to define when. When the day is cloudy. It is a type of natural light that generates an emotional effect similar to bluish light but with a slightly sadder feeling.

Because it is a slightly stronger light, than bluish light, you can use faster shutter speed.

natural light

One of the biggest advantages of working with this type of natural light is constancy, because its tone does not change much during the day, which means that you can work in less haste and pay more attention to your compositions.

Mixing light colors

Like all the rules we’ve learned, these are only for one thing to be broken, in this case mixed.

You will achieve very nice results with the mixture of cold natural light and colors. By putting warm colors in the foreground and the cool colors in the background for example, the contract and depth can surprise you.

Also working between the times of changes of the type of natural light will also yield you great photos.

You’ll be matching golden hour colors, warm colors like gold, with cool evening colors.

natural light

Mixing natural and artificial light

You can also choose to make a mix of natural and artificial lighting. In the following photo we see this. The lady was illuminated with an orange shop lamp in how much the rest was just the natural light of a cloudy day.

natural light

Or in this where are mixed the hot light of the torches with the cold blue projector lighting behind them.

natural light

For now this is it, soon I appear here with another post. Meanwhile if you like it let your comment and share in your timelime!

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Photography do it yourself Tutorials

How to Make your photography reflectors

Well today’s subject is easy, fast and practical and will still help you save a lot of money, today I will teach you how to make hitters for photography.

The use of reflectors or hitters in photography is just one way to harness existing light, and jump to the eye specific places of the image, so today the theme is DIY hitters, an easy way to make yourself your own hitters.

Make your photography reflectors

This can be done virtually with any surface that reflects light, such as a wall, mirror, cardboard, expanded polystyrene, an aluminum foil, etc.

Dedicated photography reflectors come in many different colors, shapes and sizes. Silver, gold, white, and sometimes blends of these three colors commonly known as zebra reflectors are the most common colors.

There are also 5-in-1 hitters that include a black surface to absorb light, and a translucent surface to soften light.

how to make your hitter 5 in 1
5-on-1 hitter
Diy Batsman

Which format should be hitter for photography

The shape of the hitter depends heavily on the subject you are photographing. Usually folding round reflectors are the most used because they are easier to handle, and also easier to fold, but triangular and rectangular hitters are very popular as well.

The size of the hitter also depends on what you’re trying to illuminate, and when it comes to small objects, which will be photographed on a table, things get complicated because ordinary hitters can be big and clumsy.

So let’s create our own DIY hitter in the size of the need for each situation we’re going to shoot.

Materials to make your hitters for photography

Even though you can use simple sheets of paper with some kind of object as a prop to hold your DIY hitter, the simple folding technique is sure to give you more control over the way you place your hitters.

For starters, you will need some sheets of metallized paper. The ones I’m using here can be found in office supplies or craft shops, and exist in various sizes and colors.

I bought 50×70cm sheets, and that allowed me to make a good set of hitters of different sizes and shapes.

A cool thing about this type of paper is that the back it is white, so you can use the metallized side or just turn to the white side of having different types of reflections.

On the metallized side you can also choose papers that have some kind of texture, to create different reflections effect, making your light a little more complex.

How to make hitters for photography - Materials
Metallized paper board

Hands down

Now it’s time to cut the paper in size. That depends on the size hitter you want to create, in this case, I’m making an 8x13cm hitter.

How to make hitters for photography - measurements

Now mark the lines with a pen and fold the paper into those lines. You’re going to end up with something like this.

How to make hitters for photography - Format

To keep the overlapping folds in place, I used small magnets.

You can use adhesive tape, velcro or even reusable adhesive, but using small magnets will give you more control when choosing the reflection angles of your DIY hitter.

DIY Hitters

Magnets will also be useful if you are going to use your hitter on some stand, not on a table.

DIY Hitters

How to use your new hitter.

Now that we’ve built some nice hitters it’s time to test them.

Even if you don’t have a professional lighting system, you can use your new toys. Just have a window and use the light that comes through it.

You will be amazed at what can be done.

The following image is an example.

How to make hitters for photography - result

See how it was done

DIY Hitters

Left, photo without the hitters, just with the light in the background. Right, picture of the scenery montage.

Start with lamp or window holder in the background and a diffuser in front throwing light behind the object.

DIY Hitters

Left, shots with a big hitter. Right, shot of the batter’s positioning. Now, the same system only with the inclusion of a big hitter on the sideline.

DIY Hitters

Left, final result with two golden hitters. Right, photo of the batting positions of the hitters.

And you can go on adding reflexes with your new DIY hitters. As it was done here where on the other side was placed a small hitter.

Well that’s it, don’t forget that you can change the color of your hitter to create different climates in the photo.

And then you’re going to do your DIY hitters? Leave a comments with the links to the results photos!

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Photography Tips Tutorials

5 things to keep a perfect focus

There are a few issues in photography that you can fix – noisy images, distractions in the background, white balance – but staying focused is not one of them. Always having that photo with the perfect focus, sharp, can lead you to pull your hair out of your head.

Even with the magic of the Sharpen Mask or the Lightroom tools, you can’t go far outside the threshold at which the photo was taken.

And the best tips to always have the photo with the perfect focus start here.

5 things to keep a perfect focus

Single focus point.

Simple focus point - perfect focus

This is the first big question to ask yourself. Use or not single focus point? 

There are many ways to think here, but when using the high focus of the machine, always remember to choose the mode of auto focus, because with it it is possible to define which area in which the photo will be with the perfect focus.

Like for example when you are doing a portrait, and set up the photo point for the region of the eyes of the staff to be photographed.

You can also opt for manual focusing to get a perfect focus, and this is well worth it when doing macrophotography or night shots.

Moving objects

perfect focus

Damn how it moves, how am I going to get a perfect focus? Who has never asked this question when shooting, but with the features of current machines you only go without the answer if you do not know how to use the settings of them.

Most dslr machines on the market today have an adjustment called continuous AF, also known as servo AI in Canon cameras. It allows the Af of the camera to track the object to be photographed.

Like for example a bride walking in a hallway, a child playing or birds flying.

Continuous AF is very useful, but at some point you will shoot something that is faster than the high focus system is able to follow. Ai in this case you should go back to the simple focus setting and pre focus on an area where the object to be photographed will be.

One of the best examples of this are very fast cars, wild animals and some birds.

 Fast enough shutter speed?

Shutter Speed - Perfect Focus

The old rule about shutter speed the need to have at least a second divided by the focal length of the lens still remains widely nowadays. For example if you are shooting with a 50mm the shutter speed should be at least 1/50 sec or faster.

Lenses with image stabilization help, but if always keep the shutter speed with a proper fit.

Very slow adjustments will cause blurs in your photos, and this won’t help you have a perfect focus.

Is the ISO adjustment sufficient?

Canon ISO Control - Perfect Focus

There will be times that you will have to get your hand into the ISO setting, probably to improve light conditions and be able to adjust the shutter speed at the required speed.

Not to soften and adjust the ISO, most equipment today can handle noise well in photos in adjustment up to ISO 3200.

Certainly if you are below ISO 3200 you will only notice the noise when you enlarge the photo on the computer, and even if it will make an impression of this image it will come out nifty.

See more on exhibition here

Who needs a tripod?

Why you need a tripod - perfect focus

Even if you don’t like uploading it will always be your best friend when the business is taking photos with mayor focus.

Don’t underestimate a good tripod, even if you have a lens with stabilization system, it will give you a much better support than your hands to take photos with perfect focus.

You can also be using the countdown setting to activate the shutter button or even a remote control, to definitely ensure that nothing moves while you make that wonderful photo.

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Photography Tips Tutorials

Macro photography: How to shoot raindrops

In this macro photography tutorial you will learn that a rainy day doesn’t need to be a failure as raindrops you can really bring great plans to life.

Macro photography, raindrops or raindrops

Water drops are an excellent subject for shooting under a macro setting and they look particularly attractive in flowers.

We will need a rainy day so our ‘drips’ providing our own water, using the good old spray bottle.

This is a very useful piece in photo kit for a macro session.

The water drops will add a touch of brilliance in virtually any subject, from insects and cobwebs to still life.

The secret to capturing successful macro photos is finding the right flower, orange-yellow stamens against the blue petals can create an impressive effect.

It’s also cool to be on a calm wind tip so you can have a very sharp focus.

In this session, a 105mm macro lens capable of shooting in a 1:1 aspect ratio was used. this means that we can get too close to the topic to be photographed.

If you don’t have a macro lens you’ll use extender tubes to take care of the job.

Chose a theme

Macro photography

Choose a flower that has variety of colors and interesting details, and preferably one that is positioned in partial shade to diffuse sunlight.

If the subject is in direct light you can take advantage of a diffuser, it can even be improvised, to soften the light. Adjust your camera on a tripod and set all its settings firmly

Camera settings

Macro photography

Adjust your camera to Aperture Priority mode and set a narrow aperture, f/11 is a good call for captures a good depth of field so that most flowers and water droplets are sharp-focused.

Setting a low ISO, 100 for example, will help maintain the quality of the photo.

Even if the camera is mounted on a tripod, the wind may force you to raise the ISO a bit so you can use faster shutter speed

Add water

Macro photography

Use your spray bottle to give a beautiful and thin snowy water on your flower.

Add water where you want it to appear, but be careful not to add too much water so it doesn’t run through the petals

Use manual focus

Macro photography

Set your lens to manual mode, turn on the camera’s live view and zoom in on it about 10x, aim for the center of the flower, and adjust the focus so you can get the sharpest photo possible.

For shooting always use the self-timer option, one that waits a few seconds to fire after you press the button, or better yet use a remote control.

Small shakes can ruin your photo when we are talking about macro photography.

Post production is always important

Macro photography

If you don’t use Camera Raw or Lightroom you’d better start using it, they’ll help you a lot with your photos.

Then collect all the photos you’ve taken of your flower for one of these programs. In them you can resize or recompose your photo. Recompose it so that we have only the subject on the screen.

Set exposure

Macro photography

Adjust the exposure of the photo so that it is clearer, not overexposed, and also set the contrast adjustment from the outside so that you can see the water drops more clearly.

Also adjust the levels of shadows and whites to add light and fill the photo.

Finally push the Clarity control to bring more clarity to the flower and water drops.

Photoshop can also be useful

Macro in Photoshop

To give that more detail in your image you may need tools beyond the ones you’ve already used, and at this point Adobe Photoshop can help you.

Set a high value for the Sharpen Mask control and set about 2 pixels for the Radius parameter as well as 0 for the Threshold parameter, apply, and ready.

All that remains is to layer, Layer, and then go on flatten image, flatten image, and save in Jpeg to distribute through the networks its newest composition.

Inspiration

You can combine flowers and water drops in many ways to create a variety of stunning effects

Dandelion seed

Photo by dandelion

Rain Effect

Flower photo

You can create spectacular effects with falling water. In this photo a flash was used to luminate the drops behind the flower. Use a shutter speed of about 1/250 and a dark backdrop will help paralyze the drops.

It is this use the imagination and some water and it is not wrong the pictures of the flowers of grandma’s house have become much more beautiful.

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Photography Tips Tutorials

Creative ways to work with the photo backgrounds

If you are portrait photographer and fashion large percentage of your work is done in a studio, and for many times you can get limited to the size of your space, and then enter what we know as infinite background, which are often bland , tedious and add nothing to the work.

Ai enter the naughty day to day of a photography studio, and you start looking for creative ways to work with the background of the photos

Creative ways to work with the photo backgrounds

Creativity with paper. You can stay all day shooting with a white, black or any other color background at the end of the day you will be bored so why not use the background as an information element in your photographs.

Add textures to your background, cut it into vertical slices and hang it, the fact that it comes in rolls create a natural spiral in each slice that is cut, creating very nice textures for your background.

Creative ways to work with the background of photos

All you will need is paper for background, in the color you choose, a good stand for this paper, stiletto or scissors and staples.

Creative ways to work with the background of photos

Hang your roll of paper unroll a little and go cutting vertically, creating slices.

Creative ways to work with the background of photos

In the end you will have something more or less the same as the photo above, remember to leave the spirals at a time that may come out in your photos.

You can create different vertical cut version just like using other background colors. You will be amazed by the results!

Use and abuse your imagination and see that it is worth every second lost cutting paper!

Now lens of that cloth, paper, background lost it at the bottom of the studio?.

He could be of great value if he knows how to use it.

Creative ways to work with the background of photos

Place it on a new paper to create textures in your background more randomly, has a very interesting effect if applied with creativity.

Use a different color illumination on the background to create a more spatial environment.

And for many times you get sad when your background starts to rips right, well don’t stay, use this to your advantage!

And you can also work the torn of your background purposefully, to create a kind of frame for the subject you are photographing.

Here what is worth is to use the head and send well in the photos, if you do not pity your background papers now just send bullet!

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Photography Tips Tutorials

White balance. 6 mistakes photographers make.

White Balance

The white balance (WB) is the process of removing unrealistic colors, it serves so that the objects that appear white in the photos are actually white.

Proper white balance must take into account the “color temperature” of your light source, which refers to the heat or coldness of white light.

Our eyes are very good at judging what is white or not under different light sources, but digital cameras often have a great difficulty with automatic white balance (AWB) – and can create ugly shades of blue, orange, green or even color projections.

Understanding digital white balance can help prevent these color projections, thereby improving your photos under a wide range of lighting conditions.

Bluish tone or blue collor cast
White balance, Daylight

Color Temperature

The color temperature describes the spectrum of light that is radiated from a “black body”, with which the surface temperature.

A black body is an object that absorbs all incident light – not reflecting or allowing this light to pass through it.

A good analogy to explain the radiation of a black body is when we heat a stone or a piece of metal. Usually we say that these when heated become “hot red” when they reach the proper temperature and then become “hot white” when the temperature rises further.

Similarly black bodies react with different temperatures to light banking.

Why would the temperature of light be a useful thing for photographers if they never deal with real black bodies?

Fortunately, light sources such as tungsten lamps and daylight come very close to mimicking light distribution created by black bodies, although other sources such as fluorescent ones can significantly move away from black bodies.

Even if photographers do not use the term temperature to refer to light created by black bodies, the term is applied as a correlation of color temperature.

The table below shows this correlation with using conventional light sources and their reference on the Kelvin scale.

1000-2000 KCandlelight
2500-3500 KTungsten lamp
3000-4000 KSunrise / Sunset
4000-5000 KFluorescent lamps
5000-5500 KFlash
5000-6500 KDaylight with clear sky (midday sun)
6500-8000 KModerately cloudy sky
9000-10000 KShadow or very cloudy sky

The white balance of the camera is designed to help produce images that have colors that match those you saw at the time you made the photo.

If you make a mistake here, your photos are lifeless with stoned colors, or even with annoyingly colorful, bluish, rosy, orange tones.

Let’s take a look at some of the mistakes that photographers regularly make with white balance.

mistakes 1. Use white balance on automatic all the time

The automatic white balance adjustment is a useful one because it takes a little out of concern about the color change of light throughout the day and how you move between different lighting arrangements, but it may not be ideal for all situations.

When a scene has a dominant color the automatic white balance system of the machine can try to remove or mitigate such dominance so that the photo comes out more balanced, in this way the AWB, can change the colors of the photos fleeing a little from reality.

Sunrise and sunset, when the light is too hot, can also be a challenge for an automatic white balance system.

It was designed to take out collour casts and some will do their best to get rid of this atmospheric color.

The Daylight or Sunny option usually has a better proportion in color balance.

mistakes 2. Use Shade or Cloud settings on cloudy days or in shadow situations

Although all manufacturers have these white balance settings on their machines most of the time you apply them to the situation in which the setting was designed the colors turn out to be excessively hot, pulling to a tint Orange.

It can be used as a good tool to inject personality, mood, into photos when you want the photos to have warmer colors.

It can be very effective during misty mornings to convey the feeling of the warming sun, for example.

mistakes 3. Avoid manual white balance

Many relatively experienced photographers get nervous when they are using white balance in manual or custom mode, but in fact it is extremely useful and very easy to control.

In this configuration the photographer needs to inform the camera what is the color of the light, this is done using a target card white or gray 50%.

The actual method for defining a custom white balance varies between cameras, but the basic principle is the same.

This card should be photographed in the same light that illuminated the main subject, as for example in the photo above.

Fill your machine screen with the gray card photo and then say it to use such color as a reference for the white balance.

After doing this shoot the main subject with a custom white balance!

mistakes 4. Confused by mixed lighting

Shooting in mixed lighting can be a tricky job, not to mention a nightmare. If imagine in a room where you have as daylight lighting and tungsten lamps, what configuration to use?

Using the daylight setting all the locations predominantly illuminated by the lamps appeared in the photos with warmer colors, more orange.

On the other hand, using the tungsten setting all places where there is natural lighting have become more bluish.

The solution is to set a manual white balance value, as mentioned earlier, by placing the subject to be photographed in the most important light of the scene.

Another way to deal with this problem is to modify the lighting so that all lights have the same color.

mistakes 5. Shoot in Jpeg.

While it’s a good practice to get the right white balance on the camera so you can properly evaluate image success, it’s not essential when you shoot raw.

Raw files have all available color and white balance information and can be adjusted correctly with just a mouse click.

As well as having a list of predefined white balance presets and adjusting each photo over measure. The Camera Raw Adobe has a white balancing tool by sampling that can be adjusted just by clicking on a neutral area of the image, just like in Lightroom.

Problems starting when you have no neutral area in the photo, or in the photo shoot. But just include a photo of your grey card at the beginning of each session and make all adjustments based on the parameters of the card.

mistakes 6. Always search for neutral photo

Many photographers are always in search of the most balanced white balance and forget that the photo does not necessarily need to be neutral.

Suppressing all the heat that the light of a candle brings to a photo will surely completely steal the atmosphere that was created by such light. Using white balance as an artistic tool is very valid.

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